In the Land of the Lynx
- Sarah Yearsley
- Jul 24
- 5 min read
A retreat with a difference
Article in Wellbeing Magazine by Sarah Yearsley
For a PDF copy please download here
I adore cats. If the eternal soundtrack of the universe turns out to be a cat's purr, I'll be quite content with that. Over the years, I've had the good fortune to encounter lions, tigers, leopards, cheetahs, caracals, and servals in the wild. And yet, one particular feline has long escaped me: the lynx.
These elusive, solitary cats, instantly recognisable with their speckled coats, pointed black ear tufts, and distinguished sideburns, have remained just out of reach. Their senses are astonishing – capable of hearing a mouse from 50 metres away. So when I heard about the chance to experience a Wellbeing Retreat in one of their last strongholds in Europe, the Sierra de Andújar in Andalucía, Spain, I leapt at it.
Of course, as with all rare wildlife, knowing a lynx is nearby doesn't mean you'll actually see one. That's why staying at Finca El Encinarejo offers the best of both worlds. Much like a safari lodge in Africa, if the main attraction proves shy, there's a vibrant supporting cast. The estate's 2,500 acres are also home to European bison, red and fallow deer, wild boar, genets, badgers, otters, hoopoes, vultures, as well as imperial and golden eagles.
The finca was purchased in 2019 by a couple from South Africa, who have a history as safari and walking guides in the African bush. They've transformed what was once a hunting estate into a haven for biodiversity. Guests stay in comfort while immersed in nature and wellness experiences. Alex and Jess, who now run the lodge, are both steeped in wildlife knowledge.
Finca El Encinarejo’s Wellness Retreats feature everything from Yoga and Pilates workshops to full weekend immersions designed to restore body and mind. These offerings run alongside the daily rhythms of life in the remote Spanish countryside, allowing guests to unwind, reset, and reconnect in this deeply peaceful landscape. Game drives in open-topped jeeps are led by Alex, and on our first morning he explained that they work in partnership with the CBD-Habitat Foundation and The European Nature Trust, which have been pivotal in the recovery of the Iberian lynx. El Encinarejo is named after the holm oaks that dot the hills and is one of the key estates involved in this effort.
The surrounding landscape, with its granite boulders and pine-covered slopes, could easily be mistaken for Matopos National Park, a famous safari area in the south of Zimbabwe. As dawn broke, we scanned the undergrowth. Alex explained how lynx sometimes rest on sunlit rocks in the morning before retreating into shade later in the day. He showed us small, protected rabbit warrens. These are critical because without rabbits, lynx cannot survive. "España means 'land of rabbits', named by the Carthaginians," he reminded us.
At the start of the 21st century, the lynx was nearly extinct - fewer than 100 remained. Hunting and the decline of rabbit populations had brought them to the brink. But now, thanks to conservation work, their numbers are recovering, with their number estimated at around 1,100 today. That afternoon we encountered a group of European bison, another species reintroduced to the estate. Their towering forms blocked our path. "These are Europe's largest land mammals," Alex told us. "They're built like bulls in the front and racehorses in the back." He explained their vital role in rewilding - clearing dense growth, dispersing seeds, and supporting biodiversity.
Midway through the retreat, an early morning offered the chance for deeper connection to the land. At 10 am we set off on a gentle guided walk along the river, keeping an eye out for otters along the banks. We were lucky enough to spot a family of these charismatic creatures emerging through the mist and making their way down the length of the river, stopping here and there to catch their fish breakfast.
There was time to pause and sit on the warm river rocks, and even dip our feet in the cool, clear water - a small but deeply grounding pleasure. We continued past the estate beehives, heading up toward the lynx territory. Chema, one of our guides and the man who manages the hives, was on hand to answer questions about the bees and their vital role in the ecosystem. Along the way, Chema and Alex pointed out birds, wild herbs, and animal tracks. One of the retreat's fitness instructors walked with the group, while the other was already ahead, preparing the space for our riverside yoga class.
Once we reached the shaded glade by the water, guests helped themselves to fresh spring water, unrolled mats, and settled in. The class unfolded gently, the sounds of birdsong and flowing water adding to the sense of calm. Afterwards, Chef Miriam prepared lunch right where we had practiced our yoga - nourishing, seasonal dishes all with Andalusian roots. We sampled some of the finca's honey from the beehives we had passed by earlier in the day - floral, amber-rich, and utterly delicious. Guests were welcome to join Miriam in the outdoor kitchen, learning recipes passed down through generations, or simply lie back in the sun, absorbing the stillness.
The next morning, Chema offered to take us up the winding road to where the oldest pilgrimage site in Spain is celebrated, the Royal Sanctuary of the Virgin of the Head, located on the hill of Cabeza de Andújar, a striking hilltop church sanctuary with sweeping views across the Sierra de Andújar. This oldest Marian shrine in Spain, dates back to 1227, and it's steeped in history and devotion, perched like a watchful guardian above the valleys below. Pilgrims have walked to this site for centuries, and even as a visitor, it's hard not to feel the stillness and sense of reverence that lingers in the air. We wandered quietly through the courtyards and took in the ornate chapel, before stepping outside to watch griffon vultures circling in the thermals above. It was a different kind of awe - spiritual rather than wild - yet no less grounding.
On our final day, after many hours tracking on foot, we were rewarded. Magpies and partridges gave the warning. And then he appeared - a male lynx, strolling into view. We froze, breathless, communicating only with eyebrows and silent gestures. He paused, observed us, those golden eyes seeming to assess us with bemused curiosity, and then vanished into the trees. If he did shake his head in disbelief before walking off, I wouldn't have blamed him.
It was a moment I'll never forget. A quiet connection, fleeting but profound. The lynx had finally stepped out of the shadows.
ENDS
Finca El Encinarejo
About Author / Sarah Yearsley
Sarah has 20 years of experience running a private practice as an ICF Accredited Body-Oriented Coach and Bowen Technique Therapist. Her journey began in her youth when she eventually overcame a long-term critical illness. This life-changing experience ignited her passion for supporting others to navigate life’s challenges. She has built a reputation for her empathetic, professional approach and her ability to foster positive change in the lives of her clients.
Somatic Coaching, Awaken the Wisdom Within
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